Harry McCallum's Hillside House
2
Friday, February 5, 1897.
Harry, twenty-six years old, scrambles out of an empty bed and gropes
his way through the spectral shadows of Hillside House to watch the sun come
up. Oh, it’ll come up all right, no
clouds will obscure the sky—except perhaps a taunting, thin trail of
cirrus. In the midst of the rainy
season, no rain will fall. Another day
like all the others.
In spite of omens, Harry is compelled to see the sunrise;
to purge himself of a nightmare, a fearful dream he only half remembers. For all he knows, he might be losing his
mind, his ability to separate fancy from reality, like his father. In the murky light, he stumbles over leather
boots cracked with mud, trying to find his clothes, and grumbling, “No time to
let an unnatural dream get ahold of me.”
Or quit. What would
his family do without him? He’s the only
one besides his father who’s stayed with the ranch all these years. After his two older brothers Johnny and
Wallace died, he’s the only one who lived with his father for long periods of
time in Palm Springs, coaxed water down from the falls, kept the Palm Valley
Water Company solvent, managed the general store, the orchards (what was left of them) and the livestock; endured scorching, desolate summers the last two
years while his mother, Emily, and two sisters, Pearl and May, lived comfortably
in Chicago with May’s husband, Doc Forline, and their son, John, now two years
old. Chicago
summers were hot enough—sometimes worse than Palm
Valley and certainly more sultry—but the
family lived only a stone’s throw from Lake Michigan . No lakes in this wilderness!
Self pity. Is this
what he’s been reduced to?
He finds his overalls caked with muck mixed out of dust
and yesterday’s sweat, slung over a red-dyed leather chair in the second
bedroom. How did they get in there? He was sober when he went to bed; no more
drinking for him! He couldn’t afford
it—not only because money was tight, but he didn’t want to end up like his
brother Wallace.
He hitches the work denims over his naked limbs and pulls
on the boots. No water to splash on his
grizzled face. Rubbing his gray,
bloodshot eyes with his knuckles, he brushes
back dark hair and makes his way onto the porch.
Alone and lonely, that’s the way it was last night,
missing the brooding comfort of Louise—the warmth of her body next to him; the
sublime relief that came from having her.
Nights were cold on the desert—not as bad as in January, but still cold
before sun up.
In the east the ragged edge of Cottonwood Mountains
seems unreal, painted like a smudge of black sand against the white fire of
inevitable sunrise. He squints and
waits. A breeze stirs, harbinger of daybreak,
filling dry air which smells of creosote bush, drifting sage and clove. He breathes deeply to test his cough; feels
good he can fill his lungs without pain—taking in the breath of the desert;
inhaling the scented mysteries of the land he and his father love—in recent
months, more often—hate.
He gazes dully across the huge valley basin—the McCallum
Ranch—his father still calls it “Johnnie’s Ranch”—reaching out to the southeast
from Hillside House, exhausted citrus groves, a pocket pasture with a handful
of cattle tucked against a jumbled toe of San Jacinto to the north, sprawling
like a gigantic dinosaur on the desert floor.
And beyond—silhouettes of
billowing cottonwood trees along Main
Avenue , obscuring the white Adobe where his father
sleeps. His father would be alone in the
Adobe. His mother Emily had taken Pearl to Chicago
two years ago to live with May and family.
So it’s only he and his father in Palm
Springs , and the land is dying.
Not the land itself, of course, but what they’d put into
it—their great transformation—lush orchards and pasture—these were dying,
reverting to a primitive state—to wilderness, hardly an “Eden” anymore—the
ranch, crops, citrus, and the dream. The whole damned enterprise!
This makes him think of Louise, the last time he’d been
with her, six or seven nights ago, her rankling nonsense reeling out the
Indian’s legend of Tahquitz and his curse on the McCallum family. Only for spite did she spin her tale. Harry had to admit he wasn’t much of a
lover. Too serious—too mechanical for
passionate Louise, although more than energetic and dominating than his small
frame would suggest. And she was demanding,
and sometimes—like the last time—Harry simply couldn’t allow himself to let go,
to relax and make love to her the way she wanted. His desire was to get it over with as quickly
as possible. Maybe it was his
conscience. He was using her, not loving
her, or so she would have him believe.
“You don’t love me!” she jeered one night after he’d
finished with her and told her to get dressed and go home.
“I do love you,” he said, “and I want you here. I want to marry you!”
“No you don’t,” she persisted, throwing a brown cotton
dress over her well-shaped, tight body.
She was so young—too young, perhaps, only twenty-one; dark skin and even
darker eyes, reflecting her mother’s ancestry; tall like her father. “Your family would never allow it, even if
you wanted to marry me. They look at me
as nothing but a half-breed.”
“That’s ridiculous!”
“And now you want me to gallop home to Banning in the
middle of the night.”
“No, ‘suredly I don’t, but you worry me. My family doesn’t know anything about
you. They’re in Chicago .”
“Not your father!”
“We can marry in secret.”
“There, you see!”
She stood at the door, looking down at him. “You’re all cursed—all you McCallums. Your father came down here and thought he
could change everything—change the way these people lived for hundreds of
years!”
“What do you know about these people?”
“Plenty! You forget
my father was in the Riverside Bureau of Indian Affairs. My mother herself was half-Indian.”
“Yes, I know, I know . . .”
“No, you don’t know anything. How long have we been together? Two months?
All you want is a body to keep you warm at night.”
“That’s not true!”
“Lord Tahquitz has put a curse on you.”
“That’s insane. You
don’t believe that.”
“Well, maybe I do believe it.”
Harry rolled out of bed, a blanket thrown around his
middle. Not a tall man, he was a head
taller than Louise. His gray eyes
glowered at her. “We made life better
for the Indians.”
“Water? What’s
water to the Calientes? Water from
Tahquitz has always been enough for them and now you’re diverting even that.”
“They never use it!
In flash flood it spills out into the desert and vanishes in the
sand. They’ve had a better life since we
came—since fifteen years ago, anyway, when my father built the ditch.”
“Trespassing on their land.”
“The government approved it.”
“Your life is better, Harry, not theirs. They believe Tahquitz has put a curse on you
for violating the canyon. See how your
two young brothers died, and now—how soon—your father!”
“Come back to bed,” Harry growled, tugging at the blanket.
“No, you got what you wanted.”
“Come back to bed.”
“Well . . .” She
started undressing, slowly making her way to his side.
Harry remembered now.
The source of his nightmare—the nightmare itself just as it was in
legend—the ghost of Lord Tahquitz rising in a column of awesome gray smoke
above the canyon; Tahquitz burned for a demon because he’d enticed young
maidens into his tenebrous domain and ravished them.
In his dream, Harry had seen his father pursued by Indians
up into the canyon and Chief Tahquitz himself confronting his father and
casting a spell on him. And in the
dream, the curse dissolved with distant thunder rolling down through the
canyon.
His father wasn’t well.
He’d be seventy-one July 26, and his heart had given out—his tenacity
and optimism, so virulent only a few years ago.
He shifted quixotically between delirium and apathy, lingering over
memories of his childhood along the Ohio River in Indiana .
“When I was a boy we had respect for the land . . . if
Johnnie were alive. When is Johnnie
coming back from Ventura ?”
“Father, Johnnie is dead.
He died six years ago. He’s
buried at Rosedale in Los Angeles ,
beside Wallace.”
“Wally never amounted to much, did he? What a looker. He should have gone on the stage. . . . Yes. Poor Johnnie, and Wally. They never got to see where I was born.”
Harry knew Louise wasn’t afraid to plague him with
maledictions. She could bring down
curses all she wanted, because he needed her.
He knew he must marry her soon if he wanted to keep her at all. He’d simply marry her secretly. The family need never know.
He damned himself for loving her at all. What in thunder was he doing here now,
standing like some heathen to watch the sun come up? Maybe Louise was right. Maybe there was a curse on his family, and he
was praying to the sun, or maybe Tahquitz, to exorcise it.
So what if his father did hack into the desert with his
long, stone-lined ditch? So what if he
improved the Tahquitz channel—widening the stream even more than old Van Slyke
and Burn—to trap and divert the water into his orchards. Before the drought took hold two years ago,
the Tahquitz stream brought almost two hundred miner’s inches into the ranch
each year, and John Guthrie’s canal system, hundreds of miner’s inches into
Palm Springs for other ranchers who became shareholders of the Palm Valley
Water Company. Not too many of them anymore!
Without water, the Caliente Indians would have to wander off into the
mountains each summer for food and game—some of them still did.
In spite of what Louise professed, Harry was convinced
they preferred settling into the hot
springs year round.
And now, if this blasted drought would come to an end, the Indians in Palm Springs could settle
into a true rancherĂa style of living—at least so his father hoped. They had an opportunity like no other Indians
in America ,
so he believed—to become rich, as long as speculators and government
“trustees” didn't connive to get the land away from them. They owned more land than John Guthrie, given
to them by the government in checkerboard two mile squares; the other acreage
in the checkerboard pattern given to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company,
from which Van Slyke and Burn had purchased the ranch before John Guthrie took
his option for all eighty acres in 1887.
But not without water.
Without water—nothing.
Maybe there was a curse.
3
In 1890, shortly after his return from Boston ,
his father got the government to plant date palms in Palm Valley . The fragile offshoots, many of them smuggled
out of Arab countries in the dead of night, mostly from Syria , would flourish in the
valley, John Guthrie wrote the government.
He succeeded in interesting one palmologist in particular, H.E.
Vandeman, urging him to bring the offshoots to the area. John Guthrie supported his argument with
living proof—fruit bearing date palms he’d learned to cultivate from an Indian
specialist.
Yes, the dream had been alive all right, and only seven
years ago! Now it seemed nothing but a
dream. And today he’s the only McCallum
son alive, struggling with his father to keep the dream alive.
If Louise was right, if Tahquitz or the Indians had visited
a curse on them for violating the desert, his malevolence first touched them in
the summer of 1891. All the family were
together then—his mother, Emily, in good health for the first time in months;
Johnnie just returned from Ventura
on the coast, even though not the previous November as his father had
hoped. Even the peripatetic Wallace visited
for a short time after a long sojourn to places he was not willing to
reveal. Most likely Chicago ,
New York , and Boston —Harry
guessed Boston ,
because his father and sister May were there in 1890.
Harry never had seen May so melancholic. He knew her to be overly serious at
times—much too hard on herself—but this was different. At times they were alone together, she gradually
spilled out the story in bits and pieces of her failure in Boston .
She should have known she was too young to strain toward learning
difficult operatic roles. The vocal
coach should’ve advised her that the voice doesn’t mature until the age of
thirty, so trying to force a girl of twenty-one into singing in the soprano
range was doubly dangerous, besides which she was naturally a contralto. But neither she nor her father were advised,
and her chances to become an opera star were ruined. Her father had no control over that.
Pearl, twelve years old, was in from Marlboro School in Los
Angeles for summer vacation—aloof, nose in the air, her speech artificial,
lathered with broad “a’s” where they didn’t belong, as in dahncing for dancing. When
Harry chided her for being stuck up, she said, half-mocking, “A lot you know,
desert rat!”
They’d had over seven inches of rain in Palm springs —all of it in February. Water cascaded off the mountain. Overflow from Tahquitz creek broiled out into
the desert, its overflow diverted from the pipes which fed the orchards.
The summer of 1891 also was the summer Johnnie died.
Two years after, although they hadn’t realized it at the
time, the long cycle of drought began in the rain-season of 1892-93. They thought it an aberration—only one
unusually dry year. There’d been
tantalizing months of rain since then—heavy flash floods in 1895, but never
like in the 1880s.
In the summer of 1893, John Guthrie took the family, and a
shipment of the ranch’s early grown oranges and grapefruit, to the World
Columbian Exposition in Chicago . May, now twenty-five, renewed acquaintance
with Henry Hamilton Forline, son of friends of the McCallums dating back to
John Guthrie’s youth along the Ohio River . Henry Hamilton was a young graduate of Northwestern University ,
born in Hodgenville , Kentucky ,
not too far from John Guthrie’s birthplace across the Ohio River in Vevay , Indiana —a
river town. May first met him on her
trip to Boston in 1890 when they stopped off in Chicago to visit her
father’s old family friends.
In Chicago , in 1893, Hamilton proposed marriage
and a year later, they tied the knot.
From the Los Angeles Evening Herald and Express:
Early Days in Los
Angeles :
September, 1894 – Announcement cards are out for the marriage of Miss
May Guthrie MacCallum [sic] and Harry Hamilton Forline which will take place
Wednesday, Sept. 18. The reception will
be held at the family home, 321 South
Grand Avenue from 8 to 10 o’clock.
September, 1894 – Mr. and Mrs.
J. G. MacCallum [again misspelled] gave a reception the other evening at their
home on Grand Avenue
for their son-in-law and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Harry [sic] Hamilton Forline.
Sure, the marriage was a blessing, but the family was
breaking up nonetheless, along with the Palm
Springs community.
May and her new husband immediately moved to Chicago where the doctor
had a clinic with his brother in Western Springs, a suburb of Chicago south of
Cicero.
In 1893 the silver panic created havoc nationwide. As the government began buying more silver
under the Sherman Silver Act and new issues of paper certificates backed by
silver were exchanged for gold, the gold supply dwindled and people lost
confidence in the Treasury itself.
Credit dried up along with the rivers and creeks in Palm Valley .
Then, in 1895, Wallace, now twenty-eight, succumbed to flu
in Chicago at May and Hamilton’s home.
Harry and his father hadn’t seen much of Wallace the years before he
died, as he drifted in and out of their lives, gathering companions like stray
dogs, trying to connect them into ranch life—partnerships. As he’d written in 1890: Please,
father, make an offer to my friend.
Apart from May’s marriage, one other joyous event had
marked the last seven years. The same
year Wallace died, May gave birth to a son on November 1, 1895, in Western
Springs, naming him John after her beloved brother Johnnie. And now word reached Harry and his father
that May was carrying a second child, expected in August this year. But these were evanescent moments of
happiness. Louise was right after all, Tahquitz
indeed had cursed the McCallum family.
In seven years, Harry’s two older brothers, dead; the family
scattered—financial panic and drought.
Harry feared his nightmare might come to life. Was his father’s great accomplishment going
to dissolve into an hallucination like the mirage of the decimated citrus
groves?
The hot sun suddenly exploded over Cottonwood Mountains ,
its aureate flame searing the eastern sky, revealing the failing orchards. Yes, it would be a day like all the others,
like the two hundred and eighty days before this one, without a single drop of
rain falling on the thirsting desert. It
had been weeks since he’d been in Tahquitz
Canyon . He’d seen a fringe of snow on top of San Jacinto in his last trip out into the desert. Maybe, just maybe, water was cascading down
the falls. Perhaps someone had tampered
with the floodgate which diverted the water to the McCallum orchards. He must hike up into Tahquitz again in spite
of the old curse. He’d have to challenge
the evil spirit of the revengeful Chieftain once more.
“You haven’t got me yet, old devil Tahquitz!” The general
store and his father could wait.
4
Only when he gets up into the narrow, although easily
traversed path along the canyon’s north side, does he feel safe from the
hanging rocks, no longer afraid the slightest tremor might break them loose and
crush him. Quakes in the region are practically
unknown—at least in the fifteen or so years he’s been in the desert.
One mile of picking his way among creosote bushes and he’s
out of breath. Morning sun hasn’t
reached here. It’s still cool, but he’s
been walking too fast, rushing onward, anticipating water swirling in the small
pool beneath the falls and that it might vanish if he doesn’t get to it in
time, as if then he could make sure the sluice gate on the cliff below the pool
is open so cataracts of melted snow can gush down through the flume and through
the huge rusted pipe on the ranch itself to the thirsting fruit orchards.
Tahquitz has
bewitched me. I’m losing my hold. Why am I in such a hurry? Why have I come up here at all? There’s no water, no veil of melted snow
flowing over the high marbled granite.
The desolate pool below the falls will mock me—empty, dry and full of
lizards.
He stops to get control of his breathing, resting his back
against a rock. He’s a fool. If he keeps up this pace, he’ll start
coughing blood.
He pushes ahead, hiking briskly up the winding path which
rises suddenly, then drops precipitously into a small gully. Above him is the sluice gate and flume his
father rigged to control the flow of water from the spring beneath the falls.
Climbing up and circling around a jutting rock, he doesn’t
bother to check the wheel which turns the valve and opens the gate. It’s been a long time since they used
it. No, he wants to see the pool
first—dry or full. Maybe there’s been a
miracle, like the old days.
No miracle. . . . not today. The pool is empty and glancing up at the falls
into half-light filtered through yellow-leaved poplar trees, he detects only a
trace of water like tears from a dying animal, trickling down its white-veined,
rusty, bronzed granite face. Perhaps if
he brings a barrel into the canyon, he can fill it somehow. At least now he can enjoy some of the water
for himself.
He steps through the soft floor of the pool, avoiding tiny
rocks, frightened lizards scurrying for cover.
He gets to the falls and cups his hands to catch some of the melted
snow, sloshing it on his grimy mouth, rubbing it into his eyes.
If only he could spend the whole day right here!
Refreshed, Harry starts his descent and goes for the sluice
gate. At the edge of the dry pool
farthest away from the falls, he inches carefully out along the ledge. He climbs down and is about to swing one leg
over the pipe to straddle it and get at the mechanism when, with one foot in
the air, something arrests him.
Someone has been at the valve, but not to work it. He gets as close as he can. Wire has been twisted through an open spoke
and around the valve stem. The blasted
thing is sealed tight! He can’t turn it
and couldn’t open it if he wanted to.
Confound it! Has that puritanical, over-dressed, slickered
Indian agent closed the sluice gate?
The thought of the agent coming up here in his stiff, black suit and
getting himself dirty makes him laugh.
More than likely he had one of his slavish, toad-eating bondsmen do it
for him.
Or maybe those young Indian rebels have done it. Damn! He could get five, maybe six barrels out of
the falls today if he spent the whole day doing it. Maybe he would anyhow.
Fat chance. Not with
government snoopers around. Or with one
of the Cahuilla young bloods perched on a ledge this very minute—
Thinking so has made it
happen—the echoing blast of gun fire cracks above him. A leafless bush below the embankment shudders
and dust flies.
Crimeny, so that’s
it! The Indians!
He slides off the precipice, quickly finding the trail,
high-tailing it for the gaping mouth of the canyon—more than a mile away. A distant rifle shot shatters the still air.
What else can he do but run? He must hurry to get to his father!
He curses and eats dust, the cough raking his throat. Their nearest water supply—their only water
supply for the ranch cut off by Indian thugs—or the government! Or maybe it’s old devil Tahquitz himself.
He stumbles out of the canyon into the hot sun, hacking and
wheezing, hardly able to breathe, dodging around granite megaliths, racing down
the stony trail toward the center of town and the Adobe Ranch house where he
hopes he’ll find his father.
5
The hawk, circling high, sees it differently—Harry’s a prairie
dog sprinting across the sloping alluvial plain spilling out of Tahquitz, a
diminished speck scuttering against the face of the ancient lava flow which
fans into the valley. And to the north,
John Guthrie’s decimated citrus groves, retreating like a beaten army from the
base of San Jacinto toward the dark green fuzz
of cottonwoods on Main Street . The speck disappears suddenly into green
mossy trees; the hawk banks southward toward Shadow Mountains
in search of more likely prey.
Harry gets to the Adobe out of breath, expecting to see his
father, but he’s not there. Outside in
the patio, he slumps into the rattan rocker under the spidery, white branched
fig tree . . . needs trimming before it
starts to get its summer leaves. What
summer leaves? The thing is probably
dead, but fig trees always look dead in the winter time. .
. .
A deep cough racks his lungs and he yanks the red bandana
from his back pocket and covers his mouth.
No blood—that’s a blessing!
Where are they—his father and Theresa? On a normal weekday morning, she’s banging
pots in the kitchen, cooking mush and eggs for them; stewing beef or chicken
soup for the afternoon meal.
And John Guthrie, dressed always in collar and tie, even in
the hot, dry air, sitting like Captain Thorne in a play Harry had seen in Los
Angeles—William Gillette in “Secret Service”—impeccable and determined, whether
sitting under the fig tree, or on the porch, or wandering about in Emily’s
flower garden.
Today—no one.
Now that the sun is well over the valley, the air is tinder
dry. Harry is running sweat; his
overalls stuck to his skin like the clutch of a straight-jacket—not that he’d
ever worn one—but perhaps now’s the time for insanity. I’ll be
the first McCallum to go insane, he muses.
He fights to get control of his breath. The cough subsides and he can breathe freely
again, although the pain continues to tear at him each time he wheezes a
draught of the dusty air.
The shelter of the latticed patio is no comfort; the grape
arbor nothing but a twist of empty branches; only tentative shade from a musty
green cottonwood protects him.
Finally, he’s able to get up without bringing on the cough
and decides to go inside to see if he can find a clue as to why his father or
Theresa has disappeared. He scuffs along
the short, ground-level porch, its slanting roof held up by white two-by-four
pillars.
He doesn’t want to go into the house. He hesitates and looks out toward Main Avenue . The dirt road is deserted too—not a mule or a
buckboard. He sighs at the sight of the
lawn in front of the Adobe . . . used to be emerald green in winter. Now, parched amber, smelling like burnt hay;
his mother’s flower garden, once a pungent bed of pansies, nasturtiums and
rainbow verbena, a twisted mass of dried twigs.
He takes a deep breath, feels a stab of pain his chest,
turns and walks into the house.
6
Strange paradox, John Guthrie’s building the McCallum White
Adobe, as it was called. Ironic indeed, his
ever coming to Palm Springs
in the first place.
Certainly John Guthrie loved his sons and believed the dry
hot air of the desert would help cure them, and hoped their health would
improve. But Harry knew his father
wanted to settle in the desert to recreate what he himself had known as a boy
in Indiana ;
to farm his own land and live on it. His
father was here to stay, whether or not Johnnie, or Wallace, or Harry recovered
from tuberculosis.
Before 1891, the year Johnnie died, Harry had seen his
father become possessed with the desert—a man with dogged intent to stop at
nothing to cultivate farmland which would grow California
varieties of citrus rivaling Florida
and other southern states.
Harry languished in the Adobe, it must’ve been more than an
hour, hoping the pain would leave his chest, sprawled half-awake in a porch
lounge his father had dragged inside.
No way he could stop John Guthrie anyhow, from whatever it
was he’d decided to do. Besides, where
could Harry look for him? He hadn’t
taken the phaeton, so that would mean he hadn’t gone to Seven Palms for the
train to Los Angeles . Was he up in the mountains? If so, where?
Had he found the sealed flume in the canyon?
Harry got up and wandered listlessly through the cool
rooms. Only his father lived in the
Adobe now, so it was sparsely furnished.
A couple of fancy tables and a lounge . . .
He finds himself, once again, imagining an inventory for
when his father dies. . . . dining table
and chairs, worth about ten dollars . . . he’d have to sell them. Kitchen
stove and utensils, worth maybe fifteen silver dollars; carpet—seven fifty;
marble-top sideboard—
Remnants only . . . What’s wrong with him? Morbidity always gets to him when he’s alone
in the Adobe, remembering happier days.
He almost forgets he’s been shot at in the canyon.
Where is John Guthrie?
Maybe he’s over at their general store at Main
and North. Or sitting on the porch of
Welwood Murray’s hotel chewing the fat with the old Scot, wondering what’s
going to happen to their village with this blasted drought.
Or maybe he’s gone up into the orchards or to Hillside
House looking for Harry. John Guthrie
has taken to walking along the Whitewater ditch lately, mumbling to himself;
kicking stones and cursing if anything is out of kilter, like a crumbled
revetment or jammed sluice.
Maybe I’m worried for
nothing, but hasn’t the thing been gnawing at him all morning? Hasn’t his premonition about the sluice gate
at the falls proved true? And hasn’t he
been chased out of the canyon?
His father must know about the sealed flume. That’s why he’s gone off somewhere—to find
out who did it. He might even be in
danger if he hikes up into Tahquitz, not only from gun fire, but from his heart
condition. Now, if only I can grab onto my
breath and move without coughing blood, I can run after Father and look out for
him.
In the dining room papers, scattered like chunks of
flagstone on the marble-top sideboard catch his eye. Perhaps these will give him a clue as to what
his father is up to.
John Guthrie obviously has been rummaging through his huge
trunk again. Has the Indian agent paid
him a visit last night. . . this morning?
Has his father been told they could no longer take water from
Tahquitz? It looks as if he’s been
studying how to fight it—to build a case.
He’s made a few marginal notations, but none of the documents seem
related. Perhaps he’s been reliving the
old feud with his Syndicate partners again.
Because—well, what good is it to drag out these yellowed documents? What do they have to do with Tahquitz
water? Unless . . .
Anyway, if his father wants to fight an Interior Department
decision, he wouldn’t go tearing off unprepared to lawyers in Los Angeles —not until he planned his brief
methodically. His father might be
getting old but he was still mentally alert and certainly hadn’t lost his
perception in legal matters.
No, Harry’s first assumption has to be correct. Someone has told John Guthrie about the
closed sluice gate and he’s tramping around the village trying to find out who
did it.
Then Harry notices, just beneath the top of the pile, the
stipulation dated February 7, 1888 by Joseph W. Preston, United States Indian
Agent who’d been instructed to investigate trespass and fraud on the Rincon and
Mission Indian Reservations by the Palm Valley Land Company started by his
Syndicate partners—a rival to John Guthrie’s own Palm Valley Water Company.
John Guthrie himself had initiated the investigation.
7
Preston’s 1887 investigation into possible fraud on the
Rincon and Mission Reservations climaxed a fight between John Guthrie and old
friends from the north over the development of Palm Springs .
John Guthrie’s concept of land use differed from his friends; and in
fact, from many Anglo-Americans who’d
crossed the continent to settle in California . He would’ve been more closely allied with the
early Mexican rancheros who never regarded their vast holdings as real estate
to waste away unused, later to be sold for profit on a rising market. The land in ranchero days was to be used for
grazing cattle which were slaughtered mostly for hides. After September 9, 1850 when California became a
state, vast holdings of Mexicans were taken illegally and given to the
railroads—Central Pacific, and the Southern Pacific, and John Guthrie found
himself up to his elbows defending the rights of Mexican land holders. He wasn’t very successful. The railroads had a voice in Washington .
John Guthrie envisioned his acreage in Palm Valley
as land to be cultivated by families who actually lived on it, and who would
pass on their farms to succeeding generations.
This was a concept which never was to take hold in California .
As a delegate to the California Constitutional Convention in 1878-79,
John Guthrie had fought for these principles and helped draft paragraph three
of Article Eighteen which reads:
Lands belonging to this State, which are suitable for
cultivation, shall be granted only to actual settlers, and in quantities not
exceeding three hundred and twenty acres to each settler, under such conditions
as shall be prescribed by law.
His first purchase of land in Palm Valley
from Van Slyke and Burn was precisely the limit of three hundred and twenty
acres. He planned to become an “actual
settler” on eighty acres and make it “suitable for cultivation.” Land he couldn’t cultivate himself, he’d sell
to settlers who agreed to cultivate the land, raise families on their farms and
help build a lasting community. This was
John Guthrie’s dream.
Pablo Chino, who brought John Guthrie into the village, originally
resided on the land later designated, “Section Fifteen.” Chino
knew it was “white man’s” property. He
didn’t object to moving off—in fact, he was anxious to make a shift to
Protrero, near Banning, where he had political aspirations for becoming chief
or captain of all Indians in that section.
John Guthrie took an option dated March 24, 1885 to buy the
Van Slyke and Burn property at the foot of San Jacinto . His eighty acres spread outward into the
heart of the village—to Main
Street .
This was to become the McCallum Ranch and thus strategic and
indispensable to the family, not only because John Guthrie forecast succeeding
generations of McCallums living there, but because it included a thousand feet running
along the foot of the mountain. San Jacinto symbolized permanence. The mountain was Palm Springs .
[The name for the city is credited to Harry McCallum who
used it in his correspondence to his father in Boston in 1890, and subsequently as he was
named Post Master for the city in June, 1897.
But often the larger area, particularly in relation to the water
company, was referred to as Palm
Valley .]
One of Harry’s most acrimonious quarrels with his father
was over building Hillside House in 1888.
“You’re not to touch the mountain!” John Guthrie warned
him, so Harry was forced to build his home on the slope, not into it. A huge, bronze slab still rested undisturbed
in the middle of the back porch in 1969, and remained there until the house was
bulldozed in 1971, this portion of the mountain gouged out for tennis courts.
John Guthrie made sure Harry would not move a rock over
three feet to build his house—not one fragmented, or hauled away. How often Harry had heard his father say, “As
long as I’m in Palm
Valley , they shall not
tear down the mountain! What is Palm Springs without old San Jacinto ,
the extinct volcano, the protective wall, the slumbering goddess? We must protect her in kind. You’re not to touch a foot of her!”
A bit of irony here.
It was this magnificent mountain which held back Pacific storms,
creating dry desert conditions. His
father was nearing sixty years of age when he started building the stone-lined
flume which was to stretch northward to Whitewater River
originating in the San Gorgonio watershed.
He had nothing but hand labor to depend on—his own and the Indians, who
were paid handsomely—not in the manner in which Chinese had been paid when
building the railroads. It was one of
the most unique irrigation projects of the 1880s in Southern
California .
In order to complete Whitewater ditch and bring water into
the village, it was necessary to cut through about eight miles of the Indian
reservation, raising the question of trespass.
The Agua Calientes didn’t object since they would have use of the water but
couldn’t dam it to divert the water from flowing southward from the
reservation. They helped John Guthrie
willingly, and not only because water might improve their land.
The pattern for getting a work force together in California always had been to hire cheap labor at
next-to-nothing wages—originally “coolie” labor from China ,
and more recently on the citrus and vegetable farms along the coast, immigrants
from Japan ,
many of whom ended up owning the land themselves. McCallum’s labor force in Palm Valley
for the Whitewater ditch, and afterwards for planting the orchards, necessarily
was drawn from the Indians. But he saw
to it they understood what his purpose was in bringing water in, and he paid
them.
And so, in 1885 as water began to flow south from
Whitewater; from Snow Creek, tapped as he had the Tahquitz stream, John Guthrie
picked up his option on the Van Slyke and Burn land and started planting trees. He was beginning to develop his city.
Unwieldy indeed, managing the sale of two thousand acres of
land. Cash was needed. John Guthrie decided to form a Syndicate, a
casual arrangement of partners to share undivided interests in the land, other
than the ranch land, until it could be sold to individual farmers. At the same time, he made plans to form the
Palm Valley Water Company to be incorporated and intricately tied in with the
community’s development.
Linking water rights with land sale wasn’t unknown in Southern California .
The idea had originated with George Chaffey, promoter and self-educated
engineer who created the twin settlements of Etiwanda and Ontario in the
western part of San Gabriel valley about thirty miles northwest of Palm
Springs—not desert land since the settlements were west of the mountains. Early in the 1870s, Chaffey, aided by a
wealthy Riverside newspaperman, L.M. Holt,
chartered a mutual water company so that the company could use water anywhere
within the huge development. Thus he
could divert the streams at will, a questionable practice awaiting court
decision at the time. By selling shares
in the water company with equal amounts of land, the buyer and settler became
part of the water company, no matter where the water came from.
Divergence of streams wasn’t a question as yet in Palm Valley ,
although the idea of a mutual water company appealed to John Guthrie because it
meant that settlers would share a stake in the area’s development. To underscore this intention, he wrote the
following into his articles of corporation:
. . . for the purposes of acquiring water rights,
constructing conduits, dams, reservoirs to supply Palm
Valley , Township 4 . . . for sale and
domestic use for distribution [of water] to shareholders of said corporation
owning and occupying land in Palm
Valley . . .
Interesting that these articles complied with the Chaffey
concept of protecting shareholders against the possible illegality of using
diverted streams, but the California Supreme Court had settled that question in
1885 in favor of the shareholders. More
important to John Guthrie was the phrase, owning
and occupying land. It meant that
only those who lived on the land (and, by inference, cultivated it), could
become shareholders in the corporation and the water company.
Nothing was said in the original articles about the right
to sell, lease or dispose of property, nor about mineral rights. Precisely so.
It’s the way John Guthrie wanted it.
He wished to exclude speculators and land grabbers—those who would come
in to buy up the land and let it lie fallow until they could sell it at a
profit. He’d never build an agricultural
community that way!
Two inaccuracies here:
First of all, John Guthrie’s argument with syndicate partners zeroed in
on use of the land, not that he was selling it too cheaply. They called him a deluded dreamer. Nowhere else in the state had such an
idealistic proposal, as in the articles of incorporation, been put
forward. All agricultural developments
had been monopolistic—large ranches under the control of single
ownerships. Nobody, they told him, would
buy land in Palm Springs
if they were forced to live there. The
idea was preposterous! Speculation was
the mode of the day—the potential increment in the land’s value in a rising
market. Chaffey’s mutual water company
had been created only to circumvent the controversy over diverted rivers, and
that had been settled in court. To sell
land, the partners insisted, they must guarantee the buyer profit could be
realized.
And what of the potential mineral deposits—lime and
cement? Why limit the new Elysium to
growing oranges, figs, apricots and dates?
The suggestion that Palm
Valley might be converted
into cement factories riled John Guthrie even more than speculation. Next his partners would propose building
plants to bottle water from reservation hot
springs !
Secondly, Pearl ’s
statement that she “spent great sums of money to buy back the land and clear
the titles” does not explain that 540 acres were held by John Guthrie and his
partners in undivided shares of .2748, or 2748/10,000. So Pearl
needed to buy back the partners’ shared interests. And, as we shall see, her right to her
father’s .2748 interest in syndicate land was in question more than once.
Thus, John Guthrie held a trump card. His partners couldn’t give clear title to the
land unless he agreed to a division, since he’d sold them undivided
shares. Almost three acres of Section
Fifteen—the most valuable property of all because it was against the
mountain—was still undivided, and John Guthrie refused to do so.
But his partners also held a trump. All but one refused to invest capital in his
Palm Valley Water Company. They warned
him they would form their own company. John
Guthrie was to invest $136,500, but he needed a total of $600,000 to
capitalize. Van Slyke and Burn agreed to
put up $299,000 which he would buy out when he took up the option. A friend from San Francisco , E.H. Thomas, not part of the
Syndicate, offered $27,000, and their lawyer, H.L. Drew, a token $500. John Guthrie needed someone to match his
share. O.C. Miller, a syndicate partner,
was ready to put it up. But not until
the articles were amended.
They haggled.
Finally, on the very day set for incorporation, February 1, 1887, the
articles were amended. The original
paragraph stood, but the following was added at the insistence of Miller:
. . . and for the purpose of acquiring, developing,
leasing . . . to deal in timber, lime, cement and other deposits. . . to
acquire, construct, operate and dispose of [interests] in real property. . . .
Timber? Lime and cement gouged out of sand in the heart of the village? John Guthrie would see to it that never
happened! The Palm Valley Water Company
was incorporated with offices in Los
Angeles . Miller
put up his $136,500.
John Guthrie also made a tentative agreement with Miller
that he would work out a division of Section Fifteen with the Syndicate, but he
had one more trick up his sleeve—just in case.
He played it when Miller announced that some of the partners wanted to
go ahead with forming a rival company; and were, in fact, going to do it. Worse—they planned a ballyhoo land auction in
the fall.
And, add insult to injury, who was the principle backer of
the rival company? None other than the
nabobical L.M. Holt of Riverside , the man who
set up Chaffey in the formation of his mutual water company schemes in Etiwanda
and Ontario .
John Guthrie knew that Miller was interested in the large
tract of land south of the village reservation, later to be known as “Smoke
Tree Ranch.” He also realized the area
was fed by the Whitewater ditch. He
reminded Miller, after agreeing to relinquish this land in a division, that the
question of trespass on the reservation hadn’t been settled. Miller shot back, “The question of stream
diversion was settled by the State Supreme Court two years ago. The government’s not going to allow a bunch
of redskins to block our use of that water.”
“It’s not a question of diversion,” John Guthrie told
him. “It’s a question of fraud and
trespass for using Indian lands illegally.”
“We’re going ahead with the land auction in spite of it,”
was Miller’s final word.
John Guthrie prodded the government. He had failed to stop the speculators, but
at least the matter might be settled once and for all. And later in the same year, 1887, the case
for John Guthrie’s mutual water company was strengthened by the Wright Act in California which
permitted fifty or more neighboring landowners to incorporate an irrigation
district under the laws of the
state. All the more reason to “legalize”
Whitewater ditch.
On August 22, 1887, the Indian Agent, Joseph W. Preston,
received his instructions:
. . . to investigate the
subject of fraud, trespass or other interference with lands and rights of the
Mission Indians on what is known as the Agua Caliente and the Rincon Reservations.
. . [since the government had] discovered and ascertained among other things,
that a certain land company operating in said County, known and organized under
the corporate name and style of the Palm Valley Land Company . . . had located,
surveyed, designated and partly constructed a water ditch or canal on and
through Township Four S., Range Four East . . . having for its purpose to
convey and conduct water from a point North of said reservation through the
same to a point South and beyond said sections, to be used for irrigating their
lands, and in supplying a town which said Company had located at said point,
and the lands claimed by them.
Nothing came of the investigation that summer.
By this time Miller had lined up not only Holt, but three
other Syndicate partners, friends of John Guthrie from Oakland
and San Francisco ,
and three additional small investors, to capitalize his Land Company with
$300,000. Holt promised Miller thirty
percent. John Guthrie, of course,
refused to join them.
Miller insisted his “Land” Company was going ahead with the
auction and shouldn’t John Guthrie help them with it? Prospective buyers likely would be more
attracted to land in Section Fifteen than land south. Where was John Guthrie going to get his fifty
shareholders to “legalize” his Water Company district if they didn’t throw open
Palm Valley to settlers? Convincing
arguments, but John Guthrie still wouldn’t acquiesce to a partition of Section
Fifteen. He did agree to a new survey of
Section Fifteen, however.
It was a stalling tactic.
He argued: how could they divide
the Section until it was surveyed properly?
And in October, it was completed by J.H. Stevenson for “The Palm Valley
Land and Water Company,” which should have read “The Palm Valley Land and The
Palm Valley Water Companies.”
A big, ballyhooed auction was held on November 1. John Guthrie helped write some of the
promotional material but continued to prod the government to get after Preston to complete his investigation.
Finally, on February 7, 1888, Preston
issued his opinion, allowing the invasion of Indian land by the Whitewater
ditch:
. . . whereas, the value of the land through which the
said ditch is located is inconsiderable and without water is worthless, but
with water may be of more value. . . .the same will be of great use and benefit
to said Indians. . . . That the said Palm Valley Land Company shall have the
full, free and exclusive right of way through said reservation for the
construction of a water ditch now located and designed through the sections
aforesaid owned by the said Government . . . together with all the rights and
privileges of ingress, egress and regress, and other rights necessary for the
full and successful construction, occupation, used, enjoyment and operation of
the same. . . .
In June, 1888, John Guthrie agreed to divide up Section
Fifteen, holding an undivided share in twelve and half acres; at the same time
taking his option on the sixty or so acres of the McCallum Ranch, one hundred
percent of which he would own. He and
Miller were the only shareholders in the Water Company at this time. All others, including Van Slyke, had sold
out. Nor did any of John Guthrie’s
children hold water company stock at this time.
The argument between John Guthrie McCallum and his
Syndicate partners was a faint echo of a greater struggle that had been going
on in California
since statehood. Who owned the
land? And which system of land use would
prevail—the “agrarian ideal” of small subsistence farming, or gigantic
monopolistic enterprises? John Guthrie had
become embroiled in the controversy as soon as he came to California and began to practice law.
As vast Mission holdings ranging in millions of acres were
secularized—at the exclusion of the Indians who were supposed to benefit—huge
baronies, the so-called “Mexican Land Grants” were created, sometimes extending
into a quarter of million acres across
under a single ownership. Mexican owners
and their families seldom saw, or walked or rode upon all of the land they
owned.
Newcomers to the state in the 1850s who failed in the gold
fields, tried to take up small farming and were frustrated by holdings greater
than they’d ever dreamed of. John
Guthrie remembered well the violent riots of protest in Sacramento ; the bitter legal battles in the
courts. He’d argued, debated, fought to
clarify title uncertainties for settlers.
It was a losing battle. Emigrants
stayed away from California
in droves in the 1850s, as gold rush fever waned.
John Guthrie also was aware that landed empires had been
pieced out of grants to the railroad companies—most notably, the Central
Pacific, later merged into the Southern Pacific. These empires resulted from questionable
practices—bribery of legislators, manipulation of acres belonging to public
domain given to the state by the federal government. The “checkerboard” in Palm
Valley was a lurid example, except
that Palm Springs
was a wilderness and nobody was interested in it anyway, so the Indians were
left with large alternating one mile square sections.
The Indians in Palm
Valley had a peculiar
history. Unlike any other group in California , they’d been bypassed by early trail blazers
from Sonora and the Colorado
River ; by the Mission-Presidio colonization (the area never was
under Spanish control), and later ignored by Anglo-Americans. The village—the winter habitat of the tribe
known as the “Agua Caliente” because of the hot springs—was close to the
impenetrable mountain, San Jacinto; the land, barren. Who would be interested?
California Native Americans were grouped into small tribes,
and each had its hereditary chief who could be replaced for incompetence. The Tahquitz legend sprang from this
tradition. To quote Chief Patencio:
Tahquitz was a man of great power, but he didn’t do any
good for anyone. He had no friends among
his people and became a bad spirit living in the Tahquitz Mountains ,
speaking through thunder and lightning.
Now at last the region was being settled by the white
man. Would the attitudes of the Agua
Calientes become less peaceful? How
would their culture be affected? For the
better, John Guthrie hoped. He wasn’t
going to force them into agriculture, but how could they not behold the great
benefits from planting crops and raising cattle?
For John Guthrie the Palm
Springs venture was the summation of his life—a chance
to make real his dreams and ambitions frustrated in younger days: to own, design and control his own community,
his own city. He couldn’t isolate the
Indians from this dream. They were
interconnected with him—an integral part of the environment; from his point of
view, they had a stake in the community’s development. In no other place in California had such an opportunity presented
itself to an Indian population.
Because of these convictions, he emphatically opposed
enticing into his community an avaricious mob and cynical manipulators. Some day, given time, they’d even gouge at
the mountain, and most assuredly begin to manipulate the Indians into giving up
their huge tracts of land in the heart of the envisioned “Elysium.”
For the present, at least, John Guthrie owned outright almost
six hundred acres in Palm
Valley including a
thousand feet at the foot of the mountain and the McCallum Ranch. His mutual water company controlled the water
supply. He also held more than
one-quarter interest in over five hundred acres of Syndicate property. He refused to agree to a division or sell his
share. The Syndicate could go hang.
And hang they did.
In the spring of 1888, the Farmers and Merchants Bank of Los Angeles announced they
would cease to advance money for land speculation. Other banks followed suit. The speculation fever broke. By the early 1890s Miller’s Land Company had
gone out of business altogether.
As a clear example of John Guthrie’s attempt to thwart
industrial development, he bought four hundred and ninety acres in Section 19,
southwest of the village. The land
seemed worthless for growing crops, but its industrial development had
definite potential—especially the manufacture of cement. In only a few years, Harry would realize it
was a good thing the family held title to this Section 19 property. It would save them from losing the ranch.
8
Harry recalled the Syndicate fight with some indignation
now that their source of water from Tahquitz
Canyon was
threatened. The 1888 decision on the
eight miles of Whitewater ditch cutting through the Rincon and Mission Reservations
did not improve Indian land. They never
made use of it, nor had they ever made use of Tahquitz water to any great
extent.
Now, if he and his father couldn’t use the water—if it ever
flowed again—nobody would benefit. It
was well known in the village the Calientes weren’t interested in Tahquitz
water, except for a few young rebels egged on by government snoops. Older members of the Cahuilla tribes, including
those who lived the other side of the mountain, believed water from Tahquitz
arroyo was cursed.
When he was sure he could breathe again, Harry made quick
time getting through the village. He ran
into Dr. Welwood Murray taking a stroll down Main Avenue , his tam perched on his head,
his white beard shining in the sun.
“Yes, laddie, I did see your father this morning. I stopped to chat with him but he was all in
a huff. Theresa was trying to set him
down to breakfast and he ordered her out of the house, says ‘Can’t talk to you
now, Murray !’ In a sorry state, he was.”
“Why?”
“I canna say, laddie, and I didn’t hang on to find
out. When the Judge behaves like that, you
get out of the way. Why not try the
Indian village?”
As Harry went running off, Murray shook his head—Poor fellow, where’s he off to now? Not in the direction of the village, he noted.
Harry hurried westward, running toward San
Jacinto , passing the sheds and stables. The phaeton was still in the open barn,
jammed in among farm implements . . . hay
rake, ten dollars, grind stone, three dollars, wheelbarrow, two dollars . .
.
So even though his father had not taken the phaeton and gone
off to Seven Palms Station, one of the horses was missing, his father’s honey
colored palomino he’d named “Indiana .” He must’ve struggled to saddle up—to say
nothing of how a ride into the canyon would affect his heart! What was he thinking!
Harry quickly saddled up his own mount, “Mariah,” a docile
dappled grey, riding off toward Tahquitz, pulling the mare up briefly by the
fenced-in pasture. The cows and heifer
were feeding from forage he’d dumped there yesterday, brought in from the
station along with other supplies and groceries, courtesy of the M. W. Stewart
Company; fortunately there was cash on hand to pay for it. Two mules lolled sleepily in the far corner
under a yellowing cottonwood.
Harry turned and galloped through the orchards racing toward
the canyon. At the other side of the
dying trees, he spotted his father in the distance, emerging from behind a
giant, flat-top boulder, his back straight, his large, gray head turned toward
the mountain. Fully dressed, with his
boots on, riding slowly, dreamily toward the awesome arroyo into the chasm of
tumbling rocks.
Harry reined in. He
didn’t want to pounce on his father. He
was close enough to catch up to him before he got to the falls. He grumbled softly to himself—something he’d
read in the encyclopedia: Stars whose fuel is almost spent break out
with luster . . .
And indeed, John Guthrie now was riding with a certain
luster, swaying easily on the back of his mount, bare headed, his face looking
into the sky. Loping along, with grandeur, like a dying star.
John Guthrie paused, pulled his watch out, the gold chain
catching a glint from the sun.
His father, John Guthrie, going into the mountain like a
lover returning for a final tryst with San Jacinto . To tell her, “No one shall ever touch
you. Now it’s only you and I, old
mountain. I’ve come to say goodbye.”
Blast it! Harry shook himself. The Tahquitz Curse was working on him and he
couldn’t stop it. Gotta get to father! Damn rebel
Indian up there with a shotgun! He
tapped the mare with his hand and galloped ahead. Just as he reached the canyon opening, a
crack of rifle fire bounced down along the rocky walls. Harry leaped from his horse, not waiting to
tie her up, and sprinted up the trail.
He found John Guthrie about fifty yards in, lying stretched
on the path, brown dust covering his dark clothing, his chest heavy with
breathing. Harry fell over him, grabbing
his shoulders, to protect him from the unseen menace.
“Are you hit, Father?”
There was no blood.
His father must’ve dismounted when he heard the shot, had a seizure and
fell.
“Father, I’ll get you outta here. Hold on!
Oh please, hold on!”
John Guthrie sucked in his breath. “No!
You leave me!”
“Why’d you come up here by yourself? You know you’re not well enough! There’s Indians at the falls with shotguns.”
John Guthrie tried to catch his voice to form words, but
all that came out was a rattling sound.
Harry shivered, in spite of the hot sun on his back.
“Johnnie, I’m going to . . . to leave you, Johnnie. Listen to me, son. I want to tell you. I can’t . . .”
“It’s Harry, Father!
It’s Harry! “
Harry bent down to his chest. John Guthrie clutched his shoulder and pulled
him close. “Harry,” he whispered, the
sound rasping and faint, “Harry, don’t—don’t let ‘em touch the mountain!”
On February 5, 1897, in Palm Springs , California ,
John Guthrie McCallum died. An inquest was
held because he had died away from home.
Harry said nothing about the gunfire.
The conclusion: Death due to
natural causes. John Guthrie was buried
in Rosedale Cemetery
on Washington Boulevard
in Los Angeles ,
an obelisk placed there by his wife, Emily, next to the graves of their two
sons, John and Wallace.
Louise said Tahquitz had revenged himself.
But Harry Freeman McCallum was in Palm Springs to stay. The family still owned the McCallum Ranch
with its acreage stretching out from the foot of the mountain, and hundreds of
acres beyond.
